Cat Care Guide

Diet

A well-balanced cat diet consists of:

• Most will do very well on advanced, natural or essential cat foods. Match food to life stage and activity level.
• Treats should not exceed 10% of total food intake.
• Fresh, filtered, chlorine-free water, changed daily.

Feeding

Things to remember when feeding your cat:

• Feed 2 to 3 small meals daily; cats prefer to eat throughout the day and this is the best feeding method if the food can be kept fresh and the cat will not overeat. Watch cat for signs of boredom, as bored cats will seriously overeat if food is always available. Offering wet food to your cat is a good way to help ensure they get adequate hydration.
• Using a pet fountain to provide fresh, clean, moving water for your cat may stimulate them to drink more, helping them stay hydrated.

Housing

• Cats should be kept indoors for their safety and the safety of wild animals, especially song birds. Always have a separate litter box plus one for each cat, with at least one litter box on each level of the cat’s home.

Normal Behavior

• Playful, especially as kittens; need daily interaction with a loving pet parent to feel secure.
• Rubbing their head or body against an object or pet parent is a way of “scent marking” and saying “this is mine!” Cats do this to objects and people they have accepted into their home.
• Growling, hissing or spitting is a sign of fear or frustration; purring, short meows and squeaks generally show contentment and affection.

Common Myths

Myth: A female cat should only be spayed after her first heat or first litter. Partner with your veterinarian and spay a female cat as early as possible. Allowing a cat to have one litter first provides no benefit.

Myth: Cats are aloof, independent and not very time-consuming. Cats may act aloof at times, and are definitely more independent than the average dog, but they still require frequent and consistent interaction and acceptance to feel secure.

Myth: Putting a bell on my cat will prevent it from catching birds and small animals. Cats can learn to move silently even while wearing a bell; the constant jangle of the bell can be quite irritating to a cat’s hearing.

Myth: Declawing is a simple procedure. Declawing a cat removes the entire first joint of the cat’s toe. Talk carefully with your vet about surgical and non-surgical options before deciding to declaw your cat. Surgical options are always a last resort.

Grooming & Hygiene

• Self-grooming and naturally clean.
• Occasional bathing may be needed.
• Trim claws as needed.
• Work with your veterinarian to determine the best way to manage your cat’s dental health.

Health

Signs of a Healthy Animal

• Active and responsive
• Even gait
• Clean fur
• Clear, unlabored breathing
• Clear eyes and nose
• Eats and drinks regularly

Vaccination Info

Your kitten requires a number of vaccinations including:

8 weeks – First series
Feline rhinotracheitis, Feline calicivirus, Feline panleukopenia

9-11 weeks – Second series
Feline rhinotracheitis, Feline calicivirus, Feline panleukopenia

12 weeks+ – Final series

• Feline rhinotracheitis, Feline calicivirus, Feline panleukopenia
• Rabies (required at 16 weeks and then annually)

Consult your veterinarian for the vaccination schedule that is right for your cat.

Red Flags

If you notice any of these signs, contact your veterinarian as necessary.

• Missing fur
• Diarrhea, vomiting
• Uneven gait
• Distressed breathing
• Eye or nasal discharge
• Weight loss
• Lethargic
• Excessive thirst
• Coughing, hacking

Common Health Issues

Spaying or neutering:

Males are neutered, meaning the testicles are removed. This is a fairly easy procedure. Male cats usually go home the same day and return to regular activities the following day.

Females are spayed, which removes their ovaries. Surgery is a little more involved for females, since an incision is made in their abdomen. But females also usually come home the same day and have somewhat limited activity for two or three days until the stitches start to heal. Females should be spayed before their first heat, which can occur as early as four months old.

Why spay or neuter:

Relieve your cat from the sexual frustration associated with the desire to breed. They have no emotional need to breed. You may resist the idea of altering your cat, but there are many benefits.

Prevent pet overpopulation:

There are thousands of animals in shelters and rescues across the country that are waiting for someone to adopt them. Spaying or neutering your pet helps prevent unwanted litters of kittens and gives animals at shelters and rescues a better chance of finding their forever home. Cats breed more often than dogs, producing up to four litters a year. Just one litter of six can multiply in six years to over 420,000 cats! During kitten season (spring and summer) the animal shelters take in over 400 unwanted kittens each month, often alongside their mothers.

Unwanted cats cannot just be set free to fend for themselves. The feral cats you see down at the beach or around warehouses have to be cared for by someone to survive. If you think you just want an outdoor cat, the cat won’t be around long if not altered. Male cats will roam for miles looking for females. An outdoor cat’s life span is only about three years.

Less behavior problems:

Neutered males are less likely to mark their territory. Spraying is smelly, messy and offensive to everyone except the cat. It is easier to prevent spraying by early neutering than to cure your cat of this behavior when he is older and the habit is formed. Females in heat are equally offensive. They will try to scratch through window screens and howl endlessly.

Altered cats are less aggressive:

Unaltered cats tend to be more territorial and get into more altercations than their spayed/neutered counterparts. They also tend to be more independent, harder to handle and less friendly when left intact.

Better health:

Females are at risk for mammary or uterine cancer. A nursing mother can get mastitis. Males can get testicular or prostate cancer. And the above-mentioned fights can cost hundreds of dollars in veterinary bills.

Spraying:

Spraying is not a litter box problem, but is instead an important part of nonverbal communication among cats to establish and define boundaries. Cats spray either to mark territory or to express unhappiness about changes going on around them. Cats mark their territory in several different ways: by scratching, rubbing against an object or spraying.

Urine marking (spraying) is different from a house-training problem. The cat backs up to an object, points its tail straight up in the air and sprays a nasty, smelly shot of urine. Both males and females spray, though most often a male cat is the offender. There are several approaches to solving this problem, and you may have to try them all before finding what works best for your cat.

If your cat is not spayed or neutered, get it done immediately. Sexual excitement often triggers marking behavior. A passing cat outside is enough to start it. Altering by six months of age prevents the habit from developing. An unneutered male or a female in heat can be especially obnoxious by howling, trying to get outside and spraying the door because of frustration. Spayed or neutered cats can still spray, although they typically do not.

Changes of any kind in your cat’s environment can also trigger a bout of spraying as they express their frustration, confusion and stress.

Some situations that can cause a cat to begin spraying:

• Moving to a new home
• Getting a new cat or dog
• A new baby or family member
• New or rearranged furniture
• Moving the litter box
• Dirty litter box
• Changing brands of litter

Cats are very sensitive and don’t have a lot of ways to tell you about their unhappiness.

Where cats will spray:

Corners of vertical objects are a cat’s favorite. Your cat will choose a chair or table leg, a wall, the edge of a door and just about any other thing they can back up to and get a good aim.

Equipment needed:

• Pet stain & odor remover
• Pet repellent spray
• Carpet shampoo
• Cleaning dry powders
• Cleaning mineral rock products
• Cleaning enzymal products
• Cleaning enzyme/bacteria kits
• Aluminum foil

What you can do:

If you catch your cat in the act of spraying, try distraction with toys or attention. Clean sprayed areas and treat with a pet stain and odor remover. Do not use ammonia or bleach because the odor is similar to urine and may actually encourage your cat to spray on the same spot again. Try some of the following products to clean and deodorize.

To discourage repeat spraying, apply a pet repellent and cover the spot with aluminum foil. Cats are very annoyed by the sound of urine hitting foil and usually will leave it alone.

Sometimes confining your pet to a private room for a few days will break the cycle of spraying and provide a chance for them to get over whatever is bothering them.

Medical intervention is often needed to cure spraying. Your veterinarian may prescribe hormones or a mild tranquilizer. There are products available that may help relieve stress and sometimes help to cure furniture scratching too. Spray the spot, not the cat.

Consider a consultation with a behavior specialist in your home. An expert can assess your situation unemotionally and may suggest some practical solutions you have not thought of. Contact your veterinarian, local veterinary specialty hospital or university for a referral.